Checking out the Coast

Costa Verde it is called up here the “Green Coast” and you can see why. I repeat myself gladly by saying lush green everywhere. And even when not in any named ranges of hills or mountains it is far from flat which makes for nice twisty roads large and small.

But it comes at a price for the biker… rain. Whilst the rest of Spain is under bright sun and high 20 temperatures we’re having just under 20 and dark clouds. Yet today looked like an improvement compared to the last couple of days. No thundery showers, actually no rain really.

Still we took the British approach when we set off well after 10am and packed wet kit to have it ready should we need to. Stayed on the N-634 the whole way to our first stop in Luarca. It soon got a bit narrower, winding its way around granite to our right and Rio Oreo to our left.

Lots and lots of great corners unfortunately the road surface was eroded more than we had expected and we had to ride a bit more cautiously, but still really enjoyed the ride.

Great weather for the first leg
Twisty road, shame about the slightly eroded surface

Arrived in Luarca 11:30 taking the last available space in the car park by the harbour after Google thought it was a good idea sending us up a steep narrow cobbled street just because it was probably shorter. Thankfully it wasn’t raining.

Approaching Luarca the tourist way

The view from the top before we rode back down to the car park was worth it though!

Parked up and walked around a bit. The quiet centre until we found Confitería Ancomar and what a confitería it was. So many cakes to choose from!!!

Aw man, cake!!!
Didn’t know we were getting cake with our coffees as well.

Managed to order a selection of six small ones to share and two coffees. Stuffed afterwards we walked up the road we rode down earlier to have a good look around and soak in the views along the coast.

Time to saddle up again, as it got busy. Cafès and restaurants where all open now and bustling at 12:30. Seems like all of a sudden.

More bad luck for me. My helmet intercom was dead. Didn’t even switch on at all. Weird. I was sure I had turned it off when we arrived. Bummer.

Silently we rode out of Luarca onto the N-634 again towards Cudillero. Stopped for petrol and charged my helmet for a bit, yet it wouldn’t switch on. And I also found my visor cleaner bottle had almost emptied itself into the cloth it was wrapped in. I really can’t win on this tour 😖.

Nevermind, up ahead was simply the most bestest road I ever been on!!! Enter the N-632a. Long sweeping corners mixed up with tight ones and the odd almost-switchback thrown in for good measure. Good surface and dry. Get in! Really went for it and leaned the bike over more than I ever dared. I’m not a reckless rider by any means, rather laid back and not too confident in the tighter corners, but this was just perfect for me.

Shame we couldn’t share our joy on the intercom this time, so we just got off the bikes in Cudillero both with big grins buzzing from half an hour or so of pure joy.

Cudillero turned out to be a most lovely little village with houses closely crammed onto the hillside. Reminded us a little bit of Cornwall but with the Spanish twist obviously. Had some well earned ice cream sitting near the main square soaking in the atmosphere. Could imagine this place getting pretty rammed in high season.


Had a coffee on the way back to the bikes. Gale force strength and piping hot as they are around here. Then back into the saddle for the 45min ride home.

Road out of Cudillero
Pleasant vista on the way home

Back at the hotel we had showers and then booked breakfast for next morning. Also asked how to catch the bus to Oviedo, doing my best conversing in Spanish once more as we had a different lady at reception. I’m still slow and have to think about what to say, but I’m being understood and mostly get the response. Would be great to spend a month or two here, bet I come back nearly fluent, haha.

Out for drinks at the same place we went to last night before dinner at 8 in our very own hotel. We had a bit of a Fawlty Towers moment when the elderly waiter took our order. I wanted the grilled salmon and he had to double check the menu twice until he finally knew what I wanted. I’m sure it wasn’t my Spanish this time. Rich ordered the pasta of the day which was with tomatoes and vegetable as they didn’t have the sharing platters we wanted which needed to be ordered in advance.

Things got a bit weird when I saw him take a bottle of red out of the fridge, which turned out to be the Rioja I ordered. Red wine out of the fridge?! No! We then watched him rush to serve the tables of which all were taken. Not a big dining room so totally doable with one person, but he seemed out of his depth. So did his wife (?) who couldn’t figure out how to work the till to print the bills for customers. Comedy still.

The weirdest thing yet was when he brought our cutlery and napkins. He awkwardly used the two forks to place the napkins where we sat, then put the cutlery down. 🤔🤪🤣

Until we got our food. Rich’s pasta of the day didn’t look any better than your student days pasta and tomato sauce. Didn’t taste any better either. My salmon was fried off rather nicely and the tempura veg was okay, too but nothing I’d normally pay EUR21 for! Both dishes never seen any seasoning in their life.

Shame, cause it was a nice place and we really like our room etc., but food is well below average at best. Very disappointing. I also saw two customers who got their main before they finished their starter, another big faux pas in hospitality.

After all one of the worst dining experiences we had in a long time and they even got the bill wrong which really didn’t surprise. They booked bread on which we didn’t have, but then if you have no idea how to work the till this didn’t come as a surprise.

Yet we had a great day after all! Some fantastic roads, very nice little coastal places and stayed dry as well. Tomorrow we will try to catch a bus to Oviedo and find some craft beer bars, yes!

89 miles round trip from Salas

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