Dodging the rain

I didn’t sleep that well the first night. There was quite some noise from the Sidreria next door which I actually didn’t mind but it kept me from sleeping properly for a bit. Then around two or three in the morning the strong smell of freshly baked croissants and later warm chocolate wafted through our open window from the Chocolatería downstairs. It was lush but not when you’re trying to sleep.

Chilled a bit with my book in the morning and eventually woke Rich to go out for food. Found one of the restaurants and had a large coffee and small sandwich each. Then back at the hotel we slipped into our wet gear and left for Arriondas.

It was overcast and threatening with more rain so we chose a road just skirting the Picos foothills instead of going right in. Turned out to be a good choice. Very nice twisty road with a few wet patches here and there but so far no rain. Very green hills, beautiful small villages and those wooden granaries on stilts that are so typical for the area.

Wooden granary on stilts
First leg

Arrived in Arriondas just before midday, parked up and walked around for a bit before settling for a cafe con leche and fresh orange juice at one of the restaurants.


Decided to take a punt and leave the wet kit in the top box for the next leg which was only 15mins to the Mirador del Fito, a viewpoint with mountains and sea. Supposedly… as all we could see were some lower hills through the low cloud.

Hardly a view, still happy having ridden a fantastic road up here.
A glimpse of the AS-260
Must be stunning up here in good weather

Next leg took us to Lastres. Still no rain despite some threatening clouds. Lucky us. The sun even came out now. Found a restaurant that was open and shared a spaghetti with mushrooms not repeating the same mistake of ordering too much food.

Headed up to another viewpoint and this time with much less disappointment. Stunning views down to Lastres and down the coast with a now much more visible backdrop of the Picos.

Leg 2: Arriondas to Lastres
Best view of the day

It was 3pm now and the thundery showers where forecast for 4pm onwards so we took the tourist route home on a really nice bendy road with hardly any traffic, back in Llanes quarter past four.

Leg 3: Lastres to Llanes

As we parked up we were approached by two Brits travelling in their camper who walked past and started a chat with us. Very nice couple from Lincoln interested in our journey as much as happy to share theirs.

Quick change of clothes and out again to make the best of the sunshine. Had some ice cream and a walk up another viewpoint, the Mirador de San Pedro.

There’s always room for ice cream
Llanes, coast, Picos

Then back into town hunting for a nice spot for some drinks. Found a really nice one shortly after and our two new acquaintances already there. Joined them for a bit chatting more about each others travels. Had another drink whilst they moved on in the rain that had set in by now.

More Llanes
Basílica de Santa María del Concejo

Then back to the hotel to put on some warmer clothes and have a little chill. Before we knew it we both dozed off for a good half an hour or so then slightly reluctantly got up again to go find some food. It was already quarter past eight, but that’s still early for dinner in Spain. Yet the more central restaurants were already bustling and whilst Thursday night had seemed rather quiet, Friday night was definitely much more lively.

We found the restaurant the bikers head recommended last night which was next to “our” Sidreria. We were the first guests and I somewhat managed to order three dishes to share between us after asking how big each was and how many the waiter recommended to have. He was very patient and friendly whilst I stammered in my rudimentary Spanish. Yet we somehow got the food we wanted in the end.

We were keen on trying Asturian food so had the famed fabadas, a white bean dish with chorizo, blood sausage and other bits of pork. The white bean is different than the ones I know, much softer and almost creamy. A richly flavoured dish, perfect for a rainy day which it had become in the last couple of hours.


Rich chose cachopo which is a bit of a schnitzel X cordon bleu. Ham and local cheese between two thin slices of veal. To finish we had ibérico pork steaks which were amazing. Halfway between pork and wild boar. According to Rich the best pork he ever had.

Happy and bellies full we walked back to the hotel just as pretty much every table was now occupied at half nine in the evening.

83 miles round trip today. My touring app played up so apologies for the Google maps screenshots above.

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