One last hurrah

Friday was already our last day in Cornwall and we felt like we’d only touched the surface. So let’s go out big.

We both came up with the same thought. Go somewhere different, go to Falmouth. But we wanted to do another coastal walk first and then explore Falmouth afterwards so the pooch gets his proper exercise and sniffing before being led along concrete streets.

Found an 8k loop from a small village called Helford and despite setting off at our usual time 10:30 we didn’t arrive until noon due to having to hunt for a toilet mid way and Google maps sending us right cross country onto single track roads for an hour.

Never mind. We set off passing through Helford from the rather spacious car park to walk through some nice wild woodland first. The area down here south of Falmouth was very green and we definitely achieved seeing a very different part of Cornwall.

Merlin bounced around as expected, happily sniffing and running through the forest.

Passed through the outskirts of Manaccan and then dropped out at Gillan Creek. This estuary could’ve easily been somewhere in the US or Canada not just for the name but for the still water surrounded by hills and woodland.

Gillan Creek
St Anthony ahead

Walked along it to St Anthony and then around Dennis Head to take the coast path back to Helford. Shame the expected views were absent. As we walked we had high shrub and bramble to our right blocking the views across the water. Boo.

The only view we had and it was ever so briefly

So we walked on along the narrow path getting really hungry now. Somehow we had thought we won’t need food as it was only an 8k walk but starting at lunchtime we had already been a bit peckish maybe and now our stomachs were grumbling.

Soon the shrub gave way to wild woodland and our mood improved. This was actually pretty awesome. It felt wild, untamed and left alone. The wilderness opened up briefly as we came upon the first of three solitary beaches you can only reach on foot or via the water. Merlin found it first though and expected us to throw the ball because that’s what you do on a beach, right?!

Spot the dog
Wild woods

Even though we were both starving now we really enjoyed this last part of the walk and eventually got back to the car just after 3pm. To the pub then!

Through the village again and just at the water front we found the Shipwright Arms. Lovely pub, but kitchen closed between 3pm and 6pm. Argh! We had a cold drink and a packet of crisps then to keep the wolf from the door. Hard to be grumpy about it with such a great view though!

Small but beautiful, Helford

The drive up to Falmouth took almost an hour, parked up and after walking around a little bit we popped in to The Seafood Bar, a very small but lovely place run by the Verdant brewery. Luckily they had a table for us and we started ordering their small plates straight away. Rich was happy with his Verdant craft beer and we both tucked into the fantastic food that was coming out of the tiny kitchen.

Monkfish balls with wasabi and peanut sauce, fish tacos, lobster roll, crab loaded chips, mullet, etc. It didn’t just look amazing it tasted just as good. Not cheap mind, but we had a great time.

The Seafood Bar
Fish Taco
Lobster Roll
Mullet on chargrilled tenderstem broccoli

Walked along the streets of Falmouth in the dark now to find a bottle shop so Rich could grab some Verdant cans. Shame we didn’t have more time. There was quite the unique architecture in the back streets, not the Victorian terrace we are used to in Bristol, it looked almost… colonial? Add the palm trees and you could just as well be in Southern Spain somewhere.

Vowed once more to come back here and explore more. Our fleeting visit wasn’t enough to get a proper feel for the place. Took us an hour to get back to the cottage. Felt like quite the long day and yet again we were lucky with the weather. A bit more overcast today, but dry throughout. A lovely walk, a new area of Cornwall and the best food we’ve had in a very long time. Great end to a great holiday. We will be back.

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